La cremallera invisible o como perder la cabeza.

Necesitaremos:

1. Prensatelas para cremallera invisible. És el que tiene unos pequeños dientes.
2. La cremallera invisible.
3. Dos retales de tela vieja.

Instrucciones:

Saber coser una cremallera invisble, es casi una odisea.
Al menos, lo fue para mi.
Tarde tres clases de costura, de tres horas y aun asi, aun me cuesta un poquillo coserla bien a la primera, asi que paciencia.

En primer lugar, necesitas el prensatelas para cremallera invisible. Asi que cambia el prensatelas.

Una vez cambiado, la colocacion de la tela. Es sencillo, derecho de la tela contra derecho de la cremallera.

No hay mas.

Lo dificil viene ahora. Coser la cremallera al filo sin subirte por encima de los dientes. Deberas montar el prensatelas sobre los railes de la cremallera. Observaras que tiene como dos puentecitos, ahi introduciremos los railes.
Asi pues, tendras que is abriendo la misma para asegurarte de que no te subes.

Parece sencillo, pero pasa.
Y mucho.
Te pasara bastantes veces hasta que consigas que quede bien, y es muy posible que despues de haber cosido la misma cremallera una y otra vez quede inservible, de ahi que utilizemos dos retales viejos de tela y tambien una cremallera que no sea la destinada a la prenda en cuestion.

Os preguntareis, ¿y para que quiero saber como coserla? Facil, saber coser una cremallera invisible nos va a ahorrar mucho trabajo, puesto que luego se colocaran en vestidos, faldas e incluso pantalones.

Asi que practica, practica. Y paciencia... muchisima paciencia.

Porque el patron de falda recta, llegara pronto... muy pronto.

P.D. En este video se muestra el proceso de costura :D

http://elbauldelascostureras.blogspot.com/2008/05/cierres-invisibles-colocacin.html




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Items:

1. Invisible zip's foot.

2. An invisible zip.

3. Two pieces of old fabric.

Instructions:

Learn how to sew an invisible zip is almost an Odyssey. At least it was for us. Three sewing classes and still you gotta have patience.

First of all, you need the appropriate foot for the zip, so change it.

Once you did this, you have to set the fabric. Is easy. The good side of the fabric goes against the good side of the zip (See Fig. 1.1)

The difficult part comes now. Sew it to the end of the zip without going over the teeth. You should set the foot on the rails of the zip. You can see that it has two little points, is like a train.

The only thing you have to do now, is open the foot at every step to make sure you don't get on the top of the teeth.

Seems easy and stupid, but it happens.

A lot.

It would happen to you thousand of times until it looks good enough for a C. And maybe after having sew the zip again and again it could end up being useless. That's why we use old fabric to sew it and also the zip you're going to use is not going to be the one for the cloth, it's a training zip.

You are maybe asking yourself, Why do I need to know how to sew this? Simple, knowing how to sew an invisible zip is going to save us a lot of work because afterwards you're going to put it in dresses, skirts and even pants.

So... train, train and train. And be patient... a lot of patient.

Because the first pattern would come soon.

P.s. In this video you can see the sewing process.

http://elbauldelascostureras.blogspot.com/2008/05/cierres-invisibles-colocacin.html

Let's talk about sizes, baby

TALLA	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56	58	60
TÓRAX	80	84	88	92	96	100	104	108	112	116	120
PECHO	76	80	84	88	92	96	100	104	108	112	116
CADERA	88	92	96	100	104	108	112	116	120	124	128
CUELLO	33	34	35	36	37	38	39	40	41	42	43
ESTATURA 7 CERVICAL	130	132	134	136	138	140	142	144	146	148	150
TALLE	38.5	39	39.5	40	40.5	41	41.5	42	42.5	43	43.5
CINTURA AL SUELO	91.5	93	94.5	96	97.5	99	100.5	102	103.5	105	106.5
BRAZO	52	52.8	53.6	54.4	55.2	56	56.8	57.6	58.4	59.2	60
TALLA COMERCIAL	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56

Lo primero que necesitamos, es conocer las medidas estandar para tallas. Con esta guia, sabremos las medidas que corresponden a nuestra talla. Aunque cómo habreis observado millones de veces, lo mismo tienes una 36 que una 38. (Mi teoria es que las tiendas hacen esto para que te tomes tu tiempo comprando yendo i viniendo de los probadores. No my teoria, es algo de la Psicologia de la percepcion. Fijate en una tienda y veras la de cosas chulas que hay en el camino hacia los probadores, yo he perdido la cuenta de las veces que he cogido algo antes de llegar.)

Como podeis observar hay un incremento de centimetros respecto a una talla y otra.

Ej. Para la talla 40, el contorno de busto son 76 cm, en la siguiente talla, la 42. El contorno de busto son 80. El incremento entre una talla y otra es de 4cm. Por lo que si tu talla es la 38, solo tendras que restarle 4cm a la talla 40. Y 8 cm si tu talla es la 36.

Pero, como cada persona es un mundo, os aconsejo mediros con anterioridad. En diversas paginas podreis encontrar tutoriales para tomar medidas.

http://www.enplenitud.com/nota.asp?notaId=7332

A partir de aquí, todo es empezar...

P.D. No os asusteis si el resultado no es tu talla real. La talla comercial es solo para orientacion. Aunque no deberia ser asi, me cabrea que vayas a comprar algo y te hagan creer que eres la 36 cuando eres una 38. ¿Seria tan complicado seguir la normalizacion de tallas? Ya lo se, se que hay un factor psicologico del cliente, recuerdo que lo di en alguna clase en la escuela, algo asi como que estas mas predispuesto a comprar si tienes una talla mas pequeña de la que te esperaba. Los niveles de serotonina o algo asi


Y muy pronto...

El primer patron. La Falda Recta. Es facil, sencillo y algo necesario de saber. Pero hasta que tenga todo el material preparado, tomaros las medidas de cintura, cadera y 7a cervical.



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First of all. You need to know the standard measurements for sizes. With this guide, you can get an idea on which measurements match our size. As you can see thousand of times, sometimes you're a 38 and other times a 36. (My theory is that the shops do this because this way you gotta take your time buying. Not my theory, something about psychology of behaviour. Take a look to a shop, they're a lot of cute things in the way of the changing rooms. I lost the count of times I pick up something before get in a changing room)

Anyway, as you can see there's an incrementation between a size and another.

Ex. For the size 40, the fullest part of the bust are 76cm, in the following one, the 42, the fullest part of the bust are 80. So between a size and the following one, there's 4cm. So if your size is the 38 you gotta rest 4cm to the size 40. And 8 cm if your size is the 36 and so on...

But everyone is different, so you better take measurements first. You could find different pages where you can find tutorials for taking measurements.

From here, everything is starting...

P.S This sizes are sightly normalized. In the last row I put the commercial size. The Commercial size is the size we buy in the shops... or in some of them. So you better take measurements.

Note: Don't freak out if the result is not your size. The Commercial size is just for orientation. This makes me sick, cuz you go and buy something and they make you think you're a 36 when in truth you're a size 38. Would it be so complicated to set sizes for everybody? Yeah, sure. I know there's a psychological factor of the customer. I remember in class they explained us that psychologically you're more predisposed (Is that a real word?? Whatever, I'm sick tired of dictionaries.) to buy if you have a smaller size than you thought. I suppose is all about the Serotonin levels...

P.S.2 Sorry for the readers who are from an English speaking country. My English isn't really good when it comes to writing, and I have no idea on how your measurement system works.
I do, but my Spanish brain doesn't find a sense to it.
I'm gonna try to make the patterns in both systems but I can't promise you anything. Actually, I'm not promising you anything.

And very soon...

How to make the first pattern. The Skirt. Is pretty easy and something you need to know, but until I have all the material set, take measurements of waist, hip and long of skirt.